He recommends a palette of 6 colours, two primaries each. I think the more experienced you get mixing and painting the less this will become of an issue, but whatever you feel comfortable with. You will be able to get a pretty close colour to a Cadmium red medium hue if you mix some cadmium yellow light in with the Napthol Red light you already have. Cheers, Will. Hi Will! Nice to hear from you, and pleased you’ve been enjoying the site. But still..if it’s vermilion, why it is not supposed to be toxic?! Not sure what other yellow/brown to substitute. You might not believe me and still feel the urge to search for another palette. Like you state, knowing the bias of each colour is important but surely I can find this information online or in books, can’t I? Yes, I use Golden paints in the majority but use Permanent Alizarin crimson from Winsor and Newton. thanks for links, seems like leakage is possible, so wrap up tubes in plastic. No idea how to approach it. However, Mr. Kemp, your advice in your reply is sound and I should learn the process through experience and personal preference rather than just reading instructions. I noticed that they also produce a Ultramarine Blue (Red Shade). I’m teaching a little class and this was exactly what I was looking for. I’ve only been painting ( well, trying to ) for a couple years now and I still have ALOT to learn, I bless people like you who share your knowledge so people like me can maybe turn a fun hobby into a business one day ( I’m hoping to retire at 50 and just paint LOL ), You’re welcome Allie, really pleased you’ve been enjoying the lessons. I assume it’s better to learn with mixing burnt umber and ultramarine blue according to what you write? Hi Cass, no, it’s impossible to get a bright blue green with a red blue base. You’re welcome Sarah, pleased you’ve found the article helpful in choosing your paint colours. Thank you for your thoughts Will. My best to you. Finely ground pigments are highly concentrated for optimal colour strength. Hi Robin, nice to hear from you, and you’re right, using a limited palette really can be the best way to learn how much can be achieved in painting when you know how to handle a pigment. A lot of terms and technical items have been made clearer for me thanks to you. I’m using brands golden heavy acrylic and cobra water mixable oil, Ive been using pyrole red and really like its colour, Hi James Pyrolle red is a good alternative, if you’re using oils Scarlet Lake can also work well. Sometimes the oil will separate from the pigment, but you can just squueze out the whole tube, remix together with the separated oil and put into an empty tube and it will be good to go. Hope this helps, Hi Will, i came across this post while searching for basic colour palette to have and it’s most helpful. Cheers, Will. I have been unsuccessful at creating the orange and green tones that you have there with only the white, ultramarine blue and burnt umber. You can always leave me a comment if you’ve got any questions. To get the brightest orange, you need a yellow with a red bias (cad yellow) and a red with a yellow bias (cad red). A red with an orange bias for mixing orange – Cadmium Red A red with a violet bias for mixing violet – Quinacridone Red A yellow with orange bias – Cadmium Yellow A yellow with green bias – Hansa Yellow A blue with green bias – Cerulean Blue A blue with a purple bias –  Ultramarine Blue. I’ve been painting for about 4 years and I’d love to go to another country, because it’s almost impossible to get a job as an artist here in Colombia, so I was wondering if you could send me information about scholarhips in the US or Europe, I’d love to apply for some of them so I can continue painting and doing what I really love. Hi Ingrid, in varies from vermillion, but for a Chinese vermillion, cadmium red deep or Napthol red are quite close. The colours you’ve got sound fine, the medium yellow is close to cadmium yellow, the brilliant red – cadmium red, the brown – burnt umber, the scarlet – alizarin crimson. I’ll be sure to direct my newbie friends to your website :). Wish you could see the original and my current work. I’ve never gotten beyond stick figures. However, what’s nice about Burnt Sienna is using it for glazing applications, because it has a nice translucent quality to it when it is painted on thinly. I wanted to ask you if there is a certain beginners set that you recommend? To create 90% of the colours you will need for realistic painting use the following: Burnt Umber – although this looks very dark and dull it is really handy to have, both for blocking in the darks on portraits and for toning down colours. Like you state, knowing the bias of each colour is important but surely I can find this information online or in books, can’t I? It can be a tricky jump as mixing and matching colours can be a bit frustrating when you’re first starting! the Cad yellow medium pigment won’t be as strong so use it as it is, and you’ll get cleaner results.The mixes will just be a little bit more orange rather than a very bright yellow. That’s already a done deal and they sure made it sound good in their description. Dip your brush into the mixture and paint a 4-inch block 4-inches from the top of the canvas. Many thanks. Hello Will, Thanks a lot.I’ll be expecting that. Pleased you’ve been enjoying the articles, intermixing acrylics brands is usually absolutely fine, there might be slight differences in colour shift or drying time depending on the brands you’re using but for the chemical structure of the painting you’re good to go. Acrylic palette to match my oil palette but paired back a little. And since you recommend colours for acrylics: for Christmas I got a box with white, medium yellow, brilliant red, scarlet, violet, ultramarine, medium green, dark green, yellow ochre, light brown, brown and black. I had a navy-purple base, quite dark. Hey Will, Thanks so much for this information. Hi Will just found your site. Hi Will I randomly stumbled across your YouTube channel and your website and I have to say it’s really fantastic. WINSOR & NEWTON 14ML WATER COLOR PAINT TUBE CERULEAN BLUE (RED SHADE) SERIES 3. The Alizarin crimson Hue is what I use in portraits for glazing lips, cheeks etc, a very handy paint to have on your box because it is muted, and transparent. Phthalo Blue is also known as Winsor Blue, Monestrial Blue and other names. Pro tip: make sure it is the permanent as other Alizarin Crimsons can be ‘fugitive’ colours and not have great lightfastness. Cheers, Will, Hey will if we wanted to use the limited pallete but avoid the cadmiums due to price etc what could we use? I wish that you keep on posting free videos which I can watch and study. titanium white quinacridone magenta, cadmium red medium hue, quinacridone red phthalo blue (green shade), ultramarine blue phthalo green (blue shade) hanse yellow medium, cadmium yellow medium hue burnt umber, burnt sienna carbon black. Acrylics dry darker (called colour shift) Does that make the paint break apart, so to speak? Just wanted to see if you had suggestions. I have a few online lessons that I recently purchased from you, and I have questions regarding two colours you referred to: “Hansa Yellow”: Is it Light, Medium or Opaque? I truly appreciate it and look forward to studying more of your valuable information. Will, thanks so much for your helpful tips. All cerulean blue paintings ship within 48 hours and include a 30-day money-back guarantee. Owner of another art shop was a bit incredulous offering examples of importing or sending of paints to customers by air. Also can a yellow ochre be made as well or very close to it . For the most basic palette I usually suggest: Titanium white Cadmium yellow light Permanent alizarin crimson ( from winsor & newton) Burnt umber Ultramarine blue.

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